《参考消息》2006年7月25日第15版：像毛主席那样吃湖南菜《观察家报》2006年7月23日文章：怎样像毛主席那样吃How to eat like Chairman Mao
Sunday July 23, 2006
The Observer Fuchsia Dunlop
Chairman Mao famously said that you can't be ar________①if you don't eat chillies.________________________________________.（古时候的中国人相信一方水土养一方人，环境、饮食和人的性格紧密相联。毛主席的名言与这种信念是一致[in tune with]的。）
Mao himself came from the southern Chinese province of Hunan, a region not only famous for itss_______②cooking, but also for the revolutionary militancy of its people. Mao, the province's most famous son, is still remembered affectionately by local people, who say he was the product of the uniquely propitious feng shui of the region.（1）His home village of Shaoshan has become a shrine to the revolution, and is one of the few places in China where you still sometimes hear 'comrade' used as a form of address.
Most Chinese people insist that the Hunanese have theh_______③tastes in the country. （2）Their spicy diet is said to make the people of Hunan hot and fiery in nature: in fact, so renowned are they for their valour[1] and tenacity that the Chinese say you can't have a true army without them.Hunanese women are known for theiramorousness[2],and sometimes for being a littleshrewish[3].I've even heard them described as 'huo la la', a phrase that literally means 'fire-hot-hot', but is used admiringly to express their strength, straightforwardness and c_______④.
Hunanese food is as bold and colourful as its people. Picture a table set for a dinner with rice bowls and chopsticks, the chatter of a family gathered around. The wooden surface is laden withd________⑤:a coolcoriander[4]salad with a hot-and-sour dressing; a dark,treacly[5]stew of belly porkbraised[6]tosumptuous[7]tenderness; intensely smoky bacon, steamed in an earthenware bowl with dried chillies and black fermented beans; and a bamboo shootstir-fry[8]that dances with the fresh brightness of red peppers and Chinese leeks.（见附注1）
The roots of the modern Chinese approach to flavouringd_______⑥back at least to the second century BC, when Lu Buwei's astonishinggastronomic[9]treatise, The Root of Tastes, outlined some of the principles of cookery in the form of a dialogue between a Shang dynasty king and his cook. Even then he was able to write in sophisticated terms of thealchemy[10]of flavour: 'As for the matter of harmonious blending, one must make use of the sweet, sour, bitter,pungent[11]and salty. But which tastes one adds first or later, and how much or how little, the balance is very subtle, for each produces its own effect. The transformation which occurs in thecauldron[12]is wonderful and delicate...'（见附注2）
（3）A few key notions of flavour are particularly useful in understanding modern Chinese and Hunanese cookery.
One is 'fishy' tastes or odours, the unpleasant aspects of the natural flavours of meat, fish, poultry and some vegetable inGREdients such as soybeans. Many Chineseculinary[13]strategies are concerned with dispelling these 'fishy tastes', byblanching[14],pre-frying or applying refreshing ingredients, such as ginger, spring onion, vinegar, rice wine or spices. Only then can the delicious flavour of the main ingredient be trulya_______⑦.
In contrast to these undesirable tastes, all that is best in the flavours of nature is represented by xiang, the Chinese equivalent of 'the fifth taste'. It is used to describe the most seductives_______⑧tastes, the sumptuousness of driedscallops[15],or the soothing richness of a chicken soup.
Chinese chefst_______⑨use all the arts at their disposal to bring out the xiang tastes of their raw inGREdients, enhancing them with salt, sugar and xian-rich foods such as shiitake and chicken. Sadly, monosodiumglutamate[16]is often used as a short cut to achieving xiang at the expense of more subtle flavours.
Another constant preoccupation in the Chinese kitchen is with 'sending the flavours in', or encouraging seasonings or stocks to penetrate the raw inGREdients. With food that is cut into small pieces, it may be enough to marinate for a few minutes before cooking; larger chunks of food might need a lengthy salt curing or simmering in a flavoured broth.
（4）Red-braised pork is a dish that in Hunan is inseparably bound up with the memory of Chairman Mao: many restaurants call it 'The Mao Family's red-braised pork'.Mao Zedong loved it, and insisted his Hunanese chefs cook it for him in Beijing. Best eaten with plain, steamed rice and simple stir-fried vegetables, the treacly, aromatic chunks of meat are irresistible, and it's always a favourite at my London dinnerp_______⑩.
NOTES:
[1]valour n.英勇，勇猛
[2]amorousness n.多情，爱情
[3]shrewish n.泼妇一样的；爱骂街的
[4]coriander n.芫荽
[5]treacly adj.甜蜜的
[6]braise v.炖，蒸
[7]sumptuous adj.奢侈的，华丽的
[8]stir-fry vt.用旺火煸炒
[9]gastronomic adj.美食法的，烹饪术的
[10]alchemy n.炼金术；魔力
[11]pungent adj.刺激性的，辛辣的
[12]cauldron n.大锅炉；鼎
[13]culinary adj.厨房用的；烹调用的
[14]blanch v.漂白；用开水轻汤；焯
[15]scallop n.扇贝；干贝
[16]monosodium glutamate n.味精（谷氨酸钠）
附注：
1． 菜肴：酸辣的芫荽冷菜、嫩嫩的炖猪肉、辣椒黑豆蒸腊肉、竹笋炒红辣椒和韭菜
2． 吕不韦《吕氏春秋-本味篇》：“调合之事，必以甘、酸、苦、辛、咸。先后多少，其齐甚微，皆有自起。鼎中之变，精妙微纤……”
试一试：
1．根据首字母提示和译文，填入适当单词：
①you can't be ar________if you don't eat chillies（你不吃辣椒就成不了革命者）
②not only famous for itss_______cooking（不仅以做辣菜而闻名）
③the Hunanese have theh_______tastes（湖南人吃得最辣）
④used admiringly to express their strength, straightforwardness andc_______（用于表示佩服她们的朝气、直爽和能干）
⑤The wooden surface is laden withd________（桌上摆满各种菜肴）
⑥The roots of the modern Chinese approach to flavouringd_______back at least to the second century BC（现代中国的食品烹调法至少可以追溯到公元前2世纪）
⑦Only then can the delicious flavour of the main inGREdient be trulya_______（只有这样才能使人们品尝到主料的美味）
⑧the most seductives_______tastes（最诱人的美味（可口）佳肴）
⑨Chinese chefst_______use all the arts（中国厨师历来使用他们所有的技艺）〕
⑩it's always a favourite at my London dinnerp_______（我在伦敦招待客人时，红烧肉总是一道受欢迎的菜〕
参考答案：①revolutionary ②spicy ③hottest ④capability ⑤dishes ⑥date ⑦appreciated ⑧savory ⑨traditionally ⑩parties
2．翻译划线部分英文：
参考答案：（1）他的家乡韶山成了革命圣地，是中国为数不多的几个仍然会听到“同志”这种称呼的地方之一。
（2）据说，辣的饮食使湖南人的性格火暴，实际上，他们以英勇顽强著称。中国人说，没有湖南人就不会有一支真正的军队。
（3）关于味道的几种重要的观点对理解现代中国和湖南人的烹调特别有用。
（4）湖南人把红烧肉与对毛泽东的回忆联系在一起：许多餐馆称之为“毛氏红烧肉”。
3．根据译文，写出句子：
参考译文： His words were in tune with the ancient Chinese belief that you are what you eat, and that environment, diet and human character are all intimately related.（是不是您的翻译与原文相去甚远，这不奇怪，同一意思表达方式成千上万，只要您愿意尝试学习作者的用法，您就达到学习的目的了。）
Sunday July 23, 2006
The Observer Fuchsia Dunlop
Chairman Mao famously said that you can't be ar________①if you don't eat chillies.________________________________________.（古时候的中国人相信一方水土养一方人，环境、饮食和人的性格紧密相联。毛主席的名言与这种信念是一致[in tune with]的。）
Mao himself came from the southern Chinese province of Hunan, a region not only famous for itss_______②cooking, but also for the revolutionary militancy of its people. Mao, the province's most famous son, is still remembered affectionately by local people, who say he was the product of the uniquely propitious feng shui of the region.（1）His home village of Shaoshan has become a shrine to the revolution, and is one of the few places in China where you still sometimes hear 'comrade' used as a form of address.
Most Chinese people insist that the Hunanese have theh_______③tastes in the country. （2）Their spicy diet is said to make the people of Hunan hot and fiery in nature: in fact, so renowned are they for their valour[1] and tenacity that the Chinese say you can't have a true army without them.Hunanese women are known for theiramorousness[2],and sometimes for being a littleshrewish[3].I've even heard them described as 'huo la la', a phrase that literally means 'fire-hot-hot', but is used admiringly to express their strength, straightforwardness and c_______④.
Hunanese food is as bold and colourful as its people. Picture a table set for a dinner with rice bowls and chopsticks, the chatter of a family gathered around. The wooden surface is laden withd________⑤:a coolcoriander[4]salad with a hot-and-sour dressing; a dark,treacly[5]stew of belly porkbraised[6]tosumptuous[7]tenderness; intensely smoky bacon, steamed in an earthenware bowl with dried chillies and black fermented beans; and a bamboo shootstir-fry[8]that dances with the fresh brightness of red peppers and Chinese leeks.（见附注1）
The roots of the modern Chinese approach to flavouringd_______⑥back at least to the second century BC, when Lu Buwei's astonishinggastronomic[9]treatise, The Root of Tastes, outlined some of the principles of cookery in the form of a dialogue between a Shang dynasty king and his cook. Even then he was able to write in sophisticated terms of thealchemy[10]of flavour: 'As for the matter of harmonious blending, one must make use of the sweet, sour, bitter,pungent[11]and salty. But which tastes one adds first or later, and how much or how little, the balance is very subtle, for each produces its own effect. The transformation which occurs in thecauldron[12]is wonderful and delicate...'（见附注2）
（3）A few key notions of flavour are particularly useful in understanding modern Chinese and Hunanese cookery.
One is 'fishy' tastes or odours, the unpleasant aspects of the natural flavours of meat, fish, poultry and some vegetable inGREdients such as soybeans. Many Chineseculinary[13]strategies are concerned with dispelling these 'fishy tastes', byblanching[14],pre-frying or applying refreshing ingredients, such as ginger, spring onion, vinegar, rice wine or spices. Only then can the delicious flavour of the main ingredient be trulya_______⑦.
In contrast to these undesirable tastes, all that is best in the flavours of nature is represented by xiang, the Chinese equivalent of 'the fifth taste'. It is used to describe the most seductives_______⑧tastes, the sumptuousness of driedscallops[15],or the soothing richness of a chicken soup.
Chinese chefst_______⑨use all the arts at their disposal to bring out the xiang tastes of their raw inGREdients, enhancing them with salt, sugar and xian-rich foods such as shiitake and chicken. Sadly, monosodiumglutamate[16]is often used as a short cut to achieving xiang at the expense of more subtle flavours.
Another constant preoccupation in the Chinese kitchen is with 'sending the flavours in', or encouraging seasonings or stocks to penetrate the raw inGREdients. With food that is cut into small pieces, it may be enough to marinate for a few minutes before cooking; larger chunks of food might need a lengthy salt curing or simmering in a flavoured broth.
（4）Red-braised pork is a dish that in Hunan is inseparably bound up with the memory of Chairman Mao: many restaurants call it 'The Mao Family's red-braised pork'.Mao Zedong loved it, and insisted his Hunanese chefs cook it for him in Beijing. Best eaten with plain, steamed rice and simple stir-fried vegetables, the treacly, aromatic chunks of meat are irresistible, and it's always a favourite at my London dinnerp_______⑩.
NOTES:
[1]valour n.英勇，勇猛
[2]amorousness n.多情，爱情
[3]shrewish n.泼妇一样的；爱骂街的
[4]coriander n.芫荽
[5]treacly adj.甜蜜的
[6]braise v.炖，蒸
[7]sumptuous adj.奢侈的，华丽的
[8]stir-fry vt.用旺火煸炒
[9]gastronomic adj.美食法的，烹饪术的
[10]alchemy n.炼金术；魔力
[11]pungent adj.刺激性的，辛辣的
[12]cauldron n.大锅炉；鼎
[13]culinary adj.厨房用的；烹调用的
[14]blanch v.漂白；用开水轻汤；焯
[15]scallop n.扇贝；干贝
[16]monosodium glutamate n.味精（谷氨酸钠）
附注：
1． 菜肴：酸辣的芫荽冷菜、嫩嫩的炖猪肉、辣椒黑豆蒸腊肉、竹笋炒红辣椒和韭菜
2． 吕不韦《吕氏春秋-本味篇》：“调合之事，必以甘、酸、苦、辛、咸。先后多少，其齐甚微，皆有自起。鼎中之变，精妙微纤……”
试一试：
1．根据首字母提示和译文，填入适当单词：
①you can't be ar________if you don't eat chillies（你不吃辣椒就成不了革命者）
②not only famous for itss_______cooking（不仅以做辣菜而闻名）
③the Hunanese have theh_______tastes（湖南人吃得最辣）
④used admiringly to express their strength, straightforwardness andc_______（用于表示佩服她们的朝气、直爽和能干）
⑤The wooden surface is laden withd________（桌上摆满各种菜肴）
⑥The roots of the modern Chinese approach to flavouringd_______back at least to the second century BC（现代中国的食品烹调法至少可以追溯到公元前2世纪）
⑦Only then can the delicious flavour of the main inGREdient be trulya_______（只有这样才能使人们品尝到主料的美味）
⑧the most seductives_______tastes（最诱人的美味（可口）佳肴）
⑨Chinese chefst_______use all the arts（中国厨师历来使用他们所有的技艺）〕
⑩it's always a favourite at my London dinnerp_______（我在伦敦招待客人时，红烧肉总是一道受欢迎的菜〕
参考答案：①revolutionary ②spicy ③hottest ④capability ⑤dishes ⑥date ⑦appreciated ⑧savory ⑨traditionally ⑩parties
2．翻译划线部分英文：
参考答案：（1）他的家乡韶山成了革命圣地，是中国为数不多的几个仍然会听到“同志”这种称呼的地方之一。
（2）据说，辣的饮食使湖南人的性格火暴，实际上，他们以英勇顽强著称。中国人说，没有湖南人就不会有一支真正的军队。
（3）关于味道的几种重要的观点对理解现代中国和湖南人的烹调特别有用。
（4）湖南人把红烧肉与对毛泽东的回忆联系在一起：许多餐馆称之为“毛氏红烧肉”。
3．根据译文，写出句子：
参考译文： His words were in tune with the ancient Chinese belief that you are what you eat, and that environment, diet and human character are all intimately related.（是不是您的翻译与原文相去甚远，这不奇怪，同一意思表达方式成千上万，只要您愿意尝试学习作者的用法，您就达到学习的目的了。）
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